Friday, July 11, 2008

Big Island Hawaii - Part 1 - Overview

Getting there: Finding flights to Big Island from Okinawa was not easy. Many involved 3 stops, or a long Honalulu layover. We went via Tokyo, changed airports from Haneda to Narita, and then flew direct to Kona. We changed airports via the "Friendly" airport bus service, which charges 3000Y pp for the 1.5hr journey across the Tokyo suburbs. The bus runs on the expressway. We encountered no traffic on either leg. Tickets are available in the arrivals area at both airports; the information desk ladies can direct you to the ticketing area if necessary. Buses run frequently and highly efficient, like so many things in Japan. The Tokyo metro is a less expensive alternative, but involves several line changes.
Getting around: We rented a car. Currently, AVIS is our favourite car rental company. This is primarily due to competitive prices and a relative lack sales pressure to buy scam add-ons like extra insurance, upgrades, and bringing the car back empty on fuel. There are lots of gas stations around the island, but Hawaiians pay more for energy than they do on mainland (about 50 cents more a gallon). Seeing the Big Island is virtually impossible using public transport. The towns are set up along the highway, and Kailua-Kona is one big strip mall. The only bus service is out of Hilo and runs infrequently - we never saw the bus during 13 days there, not once. Hitchhiking is fairly popular among the hippie set, but many of them seemed to wait w while before a ride came along.
Resources: We picked up local maps from the tourist brochure area at the airport. The best maps were in "This week Big Island." We used recent editions of Fodors and Let's Go. The former had a great list of beaches around the island, and a fairly comprehensive list of cafes and moderate to expensive food options. The latter included more information on hiking in Volcanoes National park, and cheaper eats. Also helpful is a New York Times article on the subject: http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/01/27/travel/27Hawaii.html. Our B+B owner also had helpful information about local restaurants.
Where to stay: It is easy to spend lots of money in Hawaii, but not a necessity. There are several campgrounds, especially on state beach parks. These require registration / bookings: https://www.ehawaii.gov/Hawaii_County/camping/exe/campre.cgi. Hilo has a youth hostel which looks fairly respectable: http://www.hawaiihostel.net/. There are several reasonably priced bed and breakfasts in Captain Cook area; most are situated in the Kona hills overlooking the sea. We stayed at the "Edge of the World" Crow's Nest room for approx 119$/night. The owner has 300 each coffee and macadamia nut trees, and sells the produce locally and to guests. The room has a stunning 180 degree view, outdoor patio, decent double bed, mini-fridge, and private bath with good-pressure shower. Breakfast is fruit from the property along with a hot dish like scrambled eggs or french toast, and lots of brewed local coffee. The decor is a little dated, but if you want fancy linens and modern colour schemes you have to pay for it (see Luana Inn). http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g60580-c2-Captain_Cook_Island_of_Hawaii_Hawaii-Hotels.htmlCaptain_Cook_Island_of_Hawaii_Hawaii-Hotels.html. There is military accommodation on Big Island at the Kilauea Military Camp located in Volcanoes National Park: http://www.kmc-volcano.com/volcano.com/volcano.com/. For 91$/night you can get a one-bedroom cabin with private bath - nothing fancy but it has a minifridge and coffee-maker, and you park right out front your door. There are several military-style eating establishments on the camp, along with a gym, bowling alley, game room, Laundromat, and shopette. The expensive resorts on Big Island are concentrated on the Kohala coast; apparently some offer specials. Our experience (Prince Hapuna Beach) was that the rooms are not special, they try to charge you huge money for every extra thing (11$ for portage! 1.75$ for 5 minutes of internet! 2.75% surcharge on ATM withdrawls! 30$ fine for pool towels not turned in by sunset!), but the pool, beach, and view are great.
Eating: Hawaii is home to the plate lunch - usually rice or poi with some kind of pork and cole slaw or macaroni salad (6-10$). The best places for this are small roadside shops, but you can also get plate lunch from mall food courts. There is also a lot of asian-esque food: thai, korean, chinese, japanese, filipino, most of it adjusted for american tastes (less chili, less herb, more meat). After spending some time in Japan, it is truly appalling how large these meals are, and how little vegetable content they contain. The best strategy for two people is to get one main meal and a salad or side dish, and split everything. Farmers markets are quite popular in Hawaii, and a great source for tropical fruit and inexpensive breakfast/lunch. Self-catering at a grocery store is also a good option - the large stores have extensive arrays of sushi (rolls), preprepared hot food, and sandwich contents.
Activities: There is no shortage of fun to be had on Big Island. Just exploring different beaches and snorkeling can consume an entire holiday. There are lots of interesting state parks and hiking opportunities. Renting a kayak (20-40$/day for a two person) is also a great option - there are lots of places to explore, but the popular one is Kealakekua bay. We didn't make it up to the Mauna Kea observatory, but that would be interesting for those that come prepared with winter clothing and an appropriate vehicle.
Shopping: This being the United States, there are an array of big box retailers on Big Island (Wal Mart, Home Depot, Lowes, Kmart, Macy's, Ross, Borders, etc) centered around Kailua Kona and Hilo. There are a couple of thrift stores in the larger towns, which have some interesting vintage Hawaiiana. The large resorts on the Kohala coast have their own attached malls, with clothing, jewelry, and trinket shops ranging from standard mall chains to posh designer stores. Kailua itself has been completely subsumed by the tourist trade, and is essentially an oversized souvenir shopping mall. The smaller towns (Hawi, Honoka'a, Honomu, Pahoa) are the place to go to support local small business and find a sarong or summer dress, or get some lychee ice cream, or whatever.
Hawaiian quirks:
*The big resorts are required by law to allow public access to the shoreline. They seem to do this reluctantly. They put up signs saying "Private road" at the entrance to their resort complex. Keep on going. Look for shoreline access signs. Different resorts provide a variable (usually insufficient) number of parking spaces for the general public. Credit must be given to the state for maintaining public shoreline access, it still seems a sad compromise that some remarkable coastal spots with historical and archaeological significance are now in the hands of the Marriott or Hilton companies.
*Anyone who has moved to Big Island from elsewhere has got a story that they love to tell about how they ended up there. We overheard these stories everywhere, and they often involved international travel and romance, surfing, farming, the arts, or some combination.
*Lots of people either don't have jobs or have nontraditional employment, so don't expect attractions to be empty on weekdays *All the tourists in Hawaii are sunburned. You cannot reapply sunscreen often enough in this part of the world.