A brief commentary on attractions and food from North to South.*Waipi'o Valley lookout - another drive out to a spectacular overlook of valley, cliff, and sea. There is a 4-wheel drive and hiking track down to the black sand beach below. For those with time and gear, a popular 2-3 day backpacking trip runs up and down the valleys and gulches from here to Pololu.
*Kalopa state park - this was less impressive than expected. The forest trail runs through a small piece of some relatively recent rainforest, with no great views. There are some nice cabins in the park, and a BBQ area with picnic tables.
*Honoka'a - this is a cute ex-sugar town; with the weatherboard buildings intact if slightly faded. There is a great hippie cafe, a couple of food options, and a fun consignment / new clothes boutique (the eastern part of town). *Laupahoehoe - we couldn't find the way down to the beach park, but the scenic point is worthwhile. *Kolekole state park - a 
valley stream emptying into the ocean, with its own waterfall and tarzan rope. A bridge overhead and the remnant of the Hilo railroad track round out the ambiance.*Honomu and Akaka falls - the town of Honomu has made less of a recovery after the collapse of the sugar industry than Honoka'a, but boasts a run-down charm. The walk to Akaka falls is popular and easy, and offers a chance to watch tourists posing for the camera in front of a tall thin waterfall.
*Hilo - faded but still lovely, Hilo boasts a downtown grid with nothing over about 4 storeys, done up in pastels. Restaurants, cafes, and galleries mingle with boarded-up storefronts and hangouts 
for the homeless. Farmers markets here offer great deals on lychees (3$ a bag), tiny local mangoes, papaya (5 for 1$), pineapples, and an array of veggies and shell necklaces. On the way out of town, there are strip malls, supermarkets, gas stations, chinese restaurants, and the rest of the detritus of city life.
for the homeless. Farmers markets here offer great deals on lychees (3$ a bag), tiny local mangoes, papaya (5 for 1$), pineapples, and an array of veggies and shell necklaces. On the way out of town, there are strip malls, supermarkets, gas stations, chinese restaurants, and the rest of the detritus of city life. *Kea'au and Lava Tree state park - the town is just an accumulation of strip malls. The park has a little trail around
the tropical foliage and the lava mold of trees long since perished.
the tropical foliage and the lava mold of trees long since perished.*Kapoho and surrounds - this town used to be a pricey subdivision, then it got overrun by lava. Some areas were spared, including seaside homes near the worthwhile Kapoho lava pools. http://www.letsgo-hawaii.com/kapoho/hawaii.com/kapoho/. They are not that warm (reportedly are volcanically heated) but that prevents algal overgrowth. Ahalanui has a warmer and more artificial volcanically
heated pool, but the brown algal bloom prevented us from testing the waters. Issac Hale beach park is a favourite surfer and beach canopy/beer-drinking spot.
heated pool, but the brown algal bloom prevented us from testing the waters. Issac Hale beach park is a favourite surfer and beach canopy/beer-drinking spot. *Pahoa is the town that supports this zone. We drove through during a Sunday day, and saw loitering men and shuttered 
shops. It was much more appealing around 6pm, when the restaurants are abuzz. We ate at Ning's Thai, which is the best Thai we have found in North America - lots of fresh herb and chili, real lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf. The mains were 9-18$ range, we enjoyed the dry tom yum vermicelli more than the creamy pineapple red curry. The drive down the 130 or 132 out of Pahoa and along the coast on the 137 is very pretty, much of the road is canopied with forest.
shops. It was much more appealing around 6pm, when the restaurants are abuzz. We ate at Ning's Thai, which is the best Thai we have found in North America - lots of fresh herb and chili, real lemongrass and kaffir lime leaf. The mains were 9-18$ range, we enjoyed the dry tom yum vermicelli more than the creamy pineapple red curry. The drive down the 130 or 132 out of Pahoa and along the coast on the 137 is very pretty, much of the road is canopied with forest. *Kehena beach and Kalapana - the beach is small and black, and on Sundays attracts alternative types for a mix of beer, drum circles, swimming, and some nudity. Kalapana is 
another ex-town, overrun with lava in the 90s, now with a few stubborn or intrepid types rebuilding their homes on the black and steaming hot ground. At the end of the road you can view the current lava flow. This obviously depends on the whim of nature, but the highway department tends to keep viewers far away from the action, given that the fresh lava flow has a tendency to cause injury and death to curious tourists.
another ex-town, overrun with lava in the 90s, now with a few stubborn or intrepid types rebuilding their homes on the black and steaming hot ground. At the end of the road you can view the current lava flow. This obviously depends on the whim of nature, but the highway department tends to keep viewers far away from the action, given that the fresh lava flow has a tendency to cause injury and death to curious tourists. *Volcanoes National park - truly spectacular. The Kilauea Iki trail is a fantastic way to spend a morning- get the booklet from the visitor's center to do the full self-guided hike. We also did the initial part of the Napau trail towards Mauna Ulu; you have to register if you plan to go beyond the Pu'u Huluhulu lookout. Again, if time is no object 
and you have the gear, there is great longer-distance hiking here. Food options are limited in this area. On KMC, the galley offers all you can eat bulk with minimal gastronomic pleasure. In Volcano Village, the Lava Rock cafe has decent salads and sandwiches for lunch. Across the parking lot is an overpriced Thai place we didn't try. Self-catering is advised.
and you have the gear, there is great longer-distance hiking here. Food options are limited in this area. On KMC, the galley offers all you can eat bulk with minimal gastronomic pleasure. In Volcano Village, the Lava Rock cafe has decent salads and sandwiches for lunch. Across the parking lot is an overpriced Thai place we didn't try. Self-catering is advised. *Pahala - a real, low-key, old-style Hawaiian town. Grab some malasadas from the town cafe.
*Punalu'u - an easily accessible black sand beach known as a sighting spot for green sea turtles, 
snorkelable in calm seas. *Around the bend to South Point, food is available at Na'alehu, which claims to be the southernmost town in the United States.
snorkelable in calm seas. *Around the bend to South Point, food is available at Na'alehu, which claims to be the southernmost town in the United States.
