Getting there/away: We went on an airfare/transportation/hotel package booked through a local DOD travel agency. ANA and JAL both fly there daily.Getting around: the Tokyo metro is world class, not quite as beautiful as Taipei's, but much much bigger. Buy a Suica or PASMO card from the machines at the stations - some smaller stations apparently do not have these machines. There is a 500Y deposit for the card, and then you add to it with bills or credit cards. The machines do not accept coin. Carry a purse or wallet and place the card in that, then just sweep over the turnstyle keypad. Couldn't be easier. Fares vary by distance, short hops are as little as 90Y.
Where to stay: if you have DOD status, the New Sanno is great. At this point, we cannot comment on other options. The New Sanno is approx 54$ a night for a standard room, 
which has a minifridge and coffee-maker. The low point of the room is the shower, which is ridiculously water-restricted. Check out the pool and jacuzzi in a sun-filled atrium. We did not sample any of the hotel food - seemed silly when there are literally tens of thousands of restaurants in Tokyo.
which has a minifridge and coffee-maker. The low point of the room is the shower, which is ridiculously water-restricted. Check out the pool and jacuzzi in a sun-filled atrium. We did not sample any of the hotel food - seemed silly when there are literally tens of thousands of restaurants in Tokyo.Resources: Lonely Planet Tokyo City guide is a good overall guide, although their format can be annoying (for any given zone of the city, the restaurant listings are separate to the attractions listings). The Eyewitness guide has some nice larger maps and good suggestions for walks.
General advice: Bring mosquito repellent in the summer if you plan to walk in parks or gardens. Wear comfortable shoes during the day, but bring something nice for the evenings. Keep moving in the train and subway stations or stand to the side to look at the maps.
For food info, the internet is full of expatriate blogs on the Tokyo dining scene. Most helpful was http://www.bento.com/tf-rest.html, which has extensive listings with mini-reviews, links to a Google map, and hours and telephone numbers. An Australian expat has a blog http://tokyoeater.blogspot.com/ about the restaurants he visits, many of which are in Ebisu (one metro stop away from Hiroo), and some of which cost a whole lot more money than most people have.
Activities: Tokyo is alive, cosmopolitan, and surprisingly affordable. You can spend weeks here walking around interesting neighborhoods, eating in cafes, enjoying the architecture, and visiting world-class museums. If you like museums, consider buying the GRUPP pass for 2000Y, which allows free or reduced-fee entry to many spots. At this site, you can print a list of participating museums: http://www.japantravelinfo.com/press/press_item.php?prid=40&past=0
We only had a couple days, so we pounded the pavement, trying to get a sample of some of the most notable neighborhoods.
Shimokitazawa - this zone surrounds a metro stop of the same name which is off the main metro map, west of Shibuya. It is a gentrified and commercialized ex-hippy zone, which still retains a more laid-back feel than other parts of the city. The narrow streets are lined with youth-oriented shops, bars, and reasonably priced restaurants. We had a glass of wine (500Y) and some Italian tapas (300Y for grilled veg, 600Y for potatoes, olives, and octopus) at atmospheric Enoteca Diana. After a bit more strolling, we had dinner at Little Saigon, which offered Thai beer for 333Y. Their spring rolls were tasty, but a little strange for the inclusion of the shiso leaf. We also had a cook-at-the-table curried fish with spring onions over rice noodles. Total was under 3000Y for 3 beers and the dinner. There is probably better Vietnamese than this is Tokyo, and there is a competing Vietnamese restaurant around the corner called Com Pho. For more on this area, see another great expat blog: http://shimokitareviews.blogspot.com/ (in her blog, the above restaurants are reviews # 12, 18, and 40 respectively)
Yanaka - this area in the north of the city was reportedly spared from most of the destruction 
wrecked by the 1923 earthquake and fires, and then by WWII. We got off the subway at Nishi-Nippori, walked through the park and past lots of temples, all situated in a low-key residential area with a smattering of traditional wooden buildings and lots of mini-gardens. We then crossed into Yanaka cemetery, and really enjoyed strolling through the grounds. At that point, it is only a 
short jump into Ueno park, full of lovely buildings and museums. Not so many restaurant options in this area, so we headed elsewhere.
wrecked by the 1923 earthquake and fires, and then by WWII. We got off the subway at Nishi-Nippori, walked through the park and past lots of temples, all situated in a low-key residential area with a smattering of traditional wooden buildings and lots of mini-gardens. We then crossed into Yanaka cemetery, and really enjoyed strolling through the grounds. At that point, it is only a 
short jump into Ueno park, full of lovely buildings and museums. Not so many restaurant options in this area, so we headed elsewhere.Shinjuku - this is the biggest, craziest metro stop/train station in the world. West Shinjuku is full of skyscrapers, including Tokyo's twin towers (Tokyo City office). Fun stops include the TOTO superspace on the 26th floor of the L building (free), the Seiji Togo Memorial art museum which has Van Gogh's Sunflowers and 
rotating exhibitions (1000Y), and the Sumitomo tower free observation area on the 41st floor. We ate at Court Lodge, a Sri Lankan spot, and had the largest lunch set for approx 1200Y. This included tasty fresh flatbread, salad, dal, mutton curry, and cabbage curry, all of which were beautiful. http://www.bento.com/rev/0316.html. East Shinjuku boasts a concentration of Tokyo's sex industry, and is the only place we saw transvestites in the city. Worth a stroll in the early evening, as described in the Lonely Planet guide.
rotating exhibitions (1000Y), and the Sumitomo tower free observation area on the 41st floor. We ate at Court Lodge, a Sri Lankan spot, and had the largest lunch set for approx 1200Y. This included tasty fresh flatbread, salad, dal, mutton curry, and cabbage curry, all of which were beautiful. http://www.bento.com/rev/0316.html. East Shinjuku boasts a concentration of Tokyo's sex industry, and is the only place we saw transvestites in the city. Worth a stroll in the early evening, as described in the Lonely Planet guide.Hiroo - this neighborhood surrounds the New Sanno, and is populated by a lot of foreign diplomats and expatriate professionals. As a result, there are multiple cafes and bakery/patisseries. We loved the Kobaya bakery at the metro station entrance and picked up a couple items there every morning for breakfast. On the street behind the New Sanno there is a convenience store, for your milk/coffee/liquor needs. The major cross street prior to the metro station, just past Hiroo's shopping mall, is lined with bars and restaurants. We tried to go to Pitcholi de LooLoo, but were sadly lacking in a reservation. It was pouring rain, so the next closest option was a place with a big plastic gyoza out front, which offered inexpensive Osaka-style gyoza and Chinese dishes. The dumplings were quite tasty, as was the stir-fried bok choy.
Harajuku and Omote-sando - this is another walk described by the LP. From Harajuku station, 
you wander the streets spotting youth in crazy outfits. The LaForet building is the best place for people watching, and has the advantage of air conditioning. http://www.virtualjapan.com/wiki/LaForet. A stop by Design Festa is also recommended to get a sense of the art/design/fashion scene here. http://www.designfesta.com/02_en/00_g_e/whats_e/ There is a marked transition out of Harajuku and onto Omote-sando, where one finds all the super-fancy designer stores in their architecturally interesting homes. The Tod's building is particularly cool.
you wander the streets spotting youth in crazy outfits. The LaForet building is the best place for people watching, and has the advantage of air conditioning. http://www.virtualjapan.com/wiki/LaForet. A stop by Design Festa is also recommended to get a sense of the art/design/fashion scene here. http://www.designfesta.com/02_en/00_g_e/whats_e/ There is a marked transition out of Harajuku and onto Omote-sando, where one finds all the super-fancy designer stores in their architecturally interesting homes. The Tod's building is particularly cool. Shiodome - we walked through this area of new development on the way to the Hama-rikyu detached palace garden. The park admission is 300Y, well spent. The garden is lovely, especially as it is set against shiny 
skyscrapers, and it includes large ponds, a traditional tea house, and a flower field. At the northeastern end is the ferry terminal, which shuttles tourists up the river to Asakusa for approx 700Y. This boat ride is a fantastic way to spent 40 minutes in Tokyo. The view of the city from the water is unparalleled, and at the end you go right past the Asahi yellow 
flame building.
skyscrapers, and it includes large ponds, a traditional tea house, and a flower field. At the northeastern end is the ferry terminal, which shuttles tourists up the river to Asakusa for approx 700Y. This boat ride is a fantastic way to spent 40 minutes in Tokyo. The view of the city from the water is unparalleled, and at the end you go right past the Asahi yellow 
flame building. Asakusa - the drawcard here is the Sensoji temple, a large complex swamped with locals and tourists. The walk through this area as described by the Lonely Planet starts after walking up a crowded shopping street, with stalls selling green tea, snacks, cheesy kimonos, and an array of souvenirs. From the temple complex, you exit onto another shopping street, and then past an area lined with street stall izakayas packed with tourists drinking beer and eating bar food. 
You end up on Kappabashi street, a shopping street famous for plastic models of food. The whole walk does give a sense of the vibrant and slightly gritty shitamachi (low city, ie by the river). We ate at Manos, a Russian restaurant mentioned in the Lonely Planet. We are a bit mystified as to why it appeared in their publication - it is a stuffy place, reminiscent of your grandmother's living room, full of people over 65, and the food is relatively expensive. At lunch, the sets started above 3000Y. We ordered a la carte a beef stroganoff (approx 1800Y) and a cabbage roll (1000Y). The beef was tender and delightful, in a creamy sauce with huge chunks of mushrooms, but the cabbage roll left a lot to be desired - the stuffing had no real flavour, and the tomato sauce was thin and sweet.
You end up on Kappabashi street, a shopping street famous for plastic models of food. The whole walk does give a sense of the vibrant and slightly gritty shitamachi (low city, ie by the river). We ate at Manos, a Russian restaurant mentioned in the Lonely Planet. We are a bit mystified as to why it appeared in their publication - it is a stuffy place, reminiscent of your grandmother's living room, full of people over 65, and the food is relatively expensive. At lunch, the sets started above 3000Y. We ordered a la carte a beef stroganoff (approx 1800Y) and a cabbage roll (1000Y). The beef was tender and delightful, in a creamy sauce with huge chunks of mushrooms, but the cabbage roll left a lot to be desired - the stuffing had no real flavour, and the tomato sauce was thin and sweet. Tsukiji - going to the fish market seemed a bit cheesy, and sure enough it was filled with gaijin, but it was totally worthwhile. The amount of activity in and around the auction floor and 
warehouse is unbelievable. The surrounding market is a feast for the eyes, and most stop long enough to actually eat something. We randomly selected a sushi place in the market nearest the warehouse which was just the right amount of crowded. We got a chef's selection set (2800Y) and a regular set (1000Y) and had more food than we could eat. The sets came with the nicest savory egg custard we have ever had , as well as miso soup.
warehouse is unbelievable. The surrounding market is a feast for the eyes, and most stop long enough to actually eat something. We randomly selected a sushi place in the market nearest the warehouse which was just the right amount of crowded. We got a chef's selection set (2800Y) and a regular set (1000Y) and had more food than we could eat. The sets came with the nicest savory egg custard we have ever had , as well as miso soup.