Kyushu

Flying domestic in Japan is so civilised. The airports are clean, well organized, and offer a variety of reasonably priced food and drink options. The security queues are minimal, the planes leave on time, the staff are terribly polite, and there is no delay in baggage retrieval. The contrast to US domestic air travel couldn't be starker. We flew into Kagoshima. The airport is halfway between the city and Kirishima National Park, our first destination. We rented a car via Budget, which was a hassle-free experience in Japan compared to the US (although car rental is much more expensive in Japan, approx 6500Y/day). Our plan was a road trip to select highlights of Kyushu - Kirishima, Kumamoto, Aso-san, and the area south of Miyazaki. Mid-April is a nice time to visit the region - depending on the altitude and location, the sakura, wisteria, and azalea were all blooming.
Information sources: Lonely Planet Japan: This offers information about doing this trip via public transportation, but we would nor recommended it for trips to the national parks. Lonely Plant's Hiking in Japan: Details on trails and conditions, with some information about transportation, lodging, and food. Paul Hunt - Hiking in Japan: This book is a bit dated now (many of the hikes were done in the 80s), but it is one of the few sources for a detailed review of trails. He also gives trails a star and difficulty rating and offers advice about when to hike. Local tourist information services: These are key in Japan. Almost every branch has English language maps and brochures. The Kagoshima airport branch has a great colour map of the prefecture. KIRISHIMA NATIONAL PARK A lovely area with mountains, valleys, and onsens starts just 10km away from the airport. We stayed in a ryokan (4500Y pp, no meals) on route 223, which was located just prior to the turnoff for Kirishima Jingu. Although this was the worst-value accommodation of the entire trip, this was quite a good price for the area, where many hotels/ryokans charge 8000Y pp. The tatami room was fairly large, but the bathroom was noisy and the proprietress never cleaned our room, so by the end of 3 days the trashcan was overflowing. There was an onsen on the ground level with a rotemburo, but the temperature was often too hot and the management was a bit slack on cleaning out the white algae that grew in the sulfurous waters. Our first day we hiked Day 1 of the Kirishima Traverse. We parked at Takachihogawara (the site of the visitor's center and the start point for Day 2) and took the public bus to Ebino Kogen, which departs daily 8:37 and 10:57am. The ride is about 30min. It lets you off by stores catering to the gift-purchasing Japanese tourist. To the east is the first volcanic peak, Karakuni dake (1700m). You cross the parking lot and start walking a trail that leads to the trailhead, where those with their own vehicles park. For this hike, carry a bilingual guide because all the signage is in Japanese. The ascent is steep and a challenging 2km long. There are views west and south to the lovely crater lakes. Unfortunately, at this point it started to rain, and we essentially saw no other vistas the rest of the hike. The descent off Karakuni is difficult - there was significant erosion, turning the trail into a muddy, slippery mess, and we ended up doing part of it on our bottoms. It is depressing to loose so much altitude after working so hard to gain it. We then began the ascent to Shishito dake, descended again (on a much better trail), then up and down Shinmoe dake. The trails starts to get easier at this point, and there is a flat section around a crater heading to Naka dake. You think you are home free, as there are boardwalks and other niceties. But the descent off Nakadake is surprisingly steep and rocky, especially when your legs are tired from all the up and down. As you approach the visitor's center, it is a long pathway of cobblestoned stairs, so you have to watch every step. In mid April, the azaleas around Takachihogawara had not yet started blooming. So, for us the hard work of this trail did not pay dividends in dramatic views of spectacular volcanic scenery. But if it had, it probably would have been worth the 3 days we spent recuperating. For those thinking about using public transportation, be aware the LP Thorn tree website states there is no longer a bus from downtown Kagoshima to Ebino Kogen. We also saw no sign of the "round bus" advertised on the Kirishima official tourist website.

The next day we visited Kirishima Jingu and drove to Lake Mi-ike for a walk along its flat shores. The trip uphill to the Kirishima Higashi Jinga is worthwhile for the view and the setting. We ended up driving south on the ?45 to Miyakonojo passing a town called Yama, where a cafe with banners exclaiming "LUNCH!" welcomed us to enjoy an affordable pasta set. That afternoon, back in Kirishima, we visited the Symphony Onsen in the people's park (in the town where the 1 comes off the 223). The entrance was 200Y, but you must bring your own shampoo and soap. The nice wooden building has a large indoor bath and a smaller rotemburo, both a very reasonable temperature. A highlight of Kirishima is the local trout farm and restaurant. It is located on the south side of the 223, just east of the Deitos love hotel sign, which is east of the Takachihogawara turnoff. There is no English language menu, but there are 3 sets priced at 1900Y, 1600Y, and 1600Y. This first two are trout sets, the more expensive set features a trout with roe. This is a beautiful dinner, with trout done 4 different ways - crispy salt fried, in sweet and sour sauce, in miso soup, and as sashimi. Each dish is lovingly prepared and unique. If you are looking for something smaller, the crispy fried salted trout is also available a la carte, and the soba is also nice.
KUMAMOTO We took the toll expressway north to Kumamoto, which cost approx 3100Y and takes 2-3 hours. However, the road is remarkable for many tunnels, some impressively long. It feels as if one third of the journey is under the mountains. We came into town on the 3, which leads to the train station. There we got a decent map. Central Kumamoto is a busy place, so we drove out on the tram line to find a business hotel. There are three clustered around Suizonji koen and Shiritsu-taiikukan-mae stations. We chose the Green Hotel, which cost 103000Y for a Western room plus 750Y for parking. Our room had a lovely view of Suizenji park, was right in front of the tram stop, and had a comfortable bed and great water pressure. The tram costs 150Y flat rate, and is approx 15 minutes into the city. We first went to the impressive castle (500Y admission). The largest building is a complete reconstruction done in reinforced concrete, and was packed with tourists. In the northwestern portion of the castle complex, an original tower structure still stands. Hardly anyone walked the wooden staircase or looked out of the windowside slots for gunners in times of conflict. We also found the Suizenji koen a worthwhile stop (400Y). This may be combined with a walk along the river towards Lake Kami Ezu. Just south of the Green Hotel is the prefectural library, and if you walk around it you run into the riverside path. The river is amazingly clean considering it runs right through the city, and the walk feels removed from the cityscape with lush vegetation and flowers, and the occasional fisherman. Another highlight of Kumamoto are the covered arcade shopping centers, which burst with commerce and people-watching. The Japanese schoolgirl scene is huge here: adolescents in tiny miniskirts paired with tights or knee-high socks and ridiculously impractical shoes. Restaurants and bars abound in this area and prices are competitive. We sourced breakfast from the pseudo-French bakery on the bottom floor of the Daiei department store, where after 6pm all bread products are 50% off. We got one lunch set a a place called Cozy, located along the tram line that heads out of town, probably near the Doshokubutsen-mae stop, and across the street from a McDonalds. Their lunch set was approx 1100Y and included the standard soup, a fantastic plate of 3 types of bread with olive oil to dip, a salad, a main which consistent of fish with white sauce and chicken rolled with ham covered in pesto, coffee, and dessert (an unfortunate attempt at pannacotta). Overall a decent bistro lunch in an unexpectedly atmospheric little shopfront. The other lunch was at a cheap, high volume noodle shop around the arcades. We ate both nights at a fantastic place called Sri Lanka, which is run by real Sri Lankans doing the tastiest, most authentic curry we have had in Japan or the United States, and tied with the best we have had in Australia. Highly recommended is the combo curry plate (approx 800Y). To find it: get off at Toricho-suji stop and walk into the Shimotori arcade. Take the second right and you'll be on a street chock-a-block with restaurants/bars. It is about 1/2 down the street on the second floor, on the left side (south) and there is good signage.
ASO-SAN AREA Aso-san is about an hour east of Kumamoto. Essentially, the whole zone is an ancient volcanic crater, with several newer active volcanoes in the center. Just inside the rim is road that circumnavigates the crater floor, and there are several towns along the road with restaurants and accommodations. These towns are not charming, and have a worn-down strip-mall vibe.The tourist information center just east of the Aso-san train station has hiking maps, a decent road map, much cleaner toilets than those in the train station, a sign regarding the status of the Naka-dake crater and cable car (closed during our visit due to fumes). The Lonely Planet demonstrates two accommodation options near the Aso-san train station, neither of which seems to exist. We found a no-frills ryokan (approx 3500Y pp) at the corner of the road that turns off to Uchinomaki, opposite a Lawsons. Bathrooms are shared, but there are two common baths downstairs, each of which locks off so mixed bathing (ie families) is OK. On the rim road heading east towards Aso, there is a conveyor belt sushi joint, a tempura diner place, and a convenience store with a large food selection. None of these were particularly satisfying options. The reason to visit this zone is to drive through the volcanic peaks, and if weather permits, do some hiking. On nice days, there are spectacular views from the 111 (which runs north-south in the middle of the crater through the newer volcanic peaks), and on the roads that twist up the crater rim climbing to the surrounding plateaus. But when overcast, there is not much to see.
KUROKAWA ONSEN This upscale onsen village is described by the Lonely Planet as a gem. Perhaps due to its location - on the way to nowhere - it has retained a traditional charm. Or maybe the high prices keep out the riff raff element that enjoys neon and large concrete animal statues. We visited as a day trip, driving about 1.5hrs out of Aso-san, on the road that heads north from the Miyaji train station. During low season you can drive right into the village and park in from of the visitor's centre, where you buy a 1200Y pass to 3 onsen of your choosing. You select the onsen based on two very helpful brochures provided, one in English and the other with colour pictures of the onsen. Should one be tempted to stay overnight in one of the ryokan-onsen-resorts, the prices start at 12,000Y pp per night. Some of the onsen here are a little different from others we have visited, and do not provide showers to use prior entering the pools. Instead, you arrive as clean as possible, then use the warm water and bowls to rinse off before entering the baths. We went to one centrally located onsen, Shinmeikan, which was interesting but disappointing. There was gender-segregated bathing in the larger tunnel-like caves, but this area was a bit too dark and warm for our liking. Then, there was a mixed bathing area at the back, down a long slippery corridor. This area was set against a rock face and looked out over the river running through town. However, it was not adequately shielded from the prying eyes of tourists walking the village streets and eating in the ryokan across the river. The onsens just to the east of town were far superior, and everything the onsen experience should be. Yamamizuki had multiple large outdoor pools. The bathroom is a small hut outside the entrance to the onsen. Men and women initially segregate to changing rooms, where one leaves their clothes and shoes in the cubby-holes provided. Men then enter the mixed bathing area - a spacious rotemburo set on the river. Women first access two lovely riverside pools, and can then make their way downriver to the mixed area. There are two waterfalls along this stretch of river, and the wooded grounds make this a beautiful and peaceful space for relaxation. Our favourite onsen was Hozantei - the grounds are so lovely we were tempted to pay the 30,000Y to stay overnight. The rotemburo are located riverside. Men and women separate into changing rooms, and this one does have showers with soap to clean off before and after soaking. The women's area has three pools - the largest one with comfortably hot milky waters, another hotter pool, and the final, cold. The mixed/men's area has a large hot pool and a smaller cold one. Several things set this onsen apart: the setting felt especially remote, the temperature was not excessively hot, and the seating was comfortable, with smooth rocks set at different levels for better temperature regulation. We had lunch in town at the restaurant across the street from the visitor's center. They offer a tofu kaiseki lunch set for 3000(!!)Y which was so large we split it. As the Aso-san area is famous for its soybeans, tofu meals are a specialty in the region. Our lunch set included delicious plain tofu with bonito and soy, a tofu skin wrap, sweet and sour tofu, fried tofu, tofu in miso soup, and soy-based pudding, as well as coffee and flan. That much tofu can initiate nausea in those not accustomed, so consider supplementing your diet in Kurokawa with something non-soybean based.
TAKACHIHO GORGE On our way to Miyazaki, we stopped in this village to walk the gorge. This is a classic Japanese tour bus destination, but worthwhile. There is a parking lot with a fee (approx 300Y), a souvenir shop, a paved pathway alongside the gorge, a place to rent rowboats, and at the end of the trail several lunch spots and more shops. It takes an hour or two to walk the gorge and take a few photos. There are several lovely shrines around town - we went to one just north of the town center, up the road from a grocery store. Steps lead through the trees to a delightfully minimalist shrine, decorated primarily with unpainted wooden carvings. The drive through the mountains to the coast is lovely. MIYAZAKI This town boasts sunshine and surf, but one of the worst restaurant scenes we have encountered the world over. We stopped here for dinner and sleep en route further south. We stayed at the hilariously dated Crane Tachibana hotel (4500Y for a double with bath and breakfast) on the corner of Tachibana-dori and the street that leads to the art deco prefectural office. Bonus for men - the hotel has a nice onsen on the top floor. The town's entertainment area and covered arcades looked promising, but the local entrepreneurs are caught up in a single theme - the izakaya. They seemed especially enthusiastic about the 1hr all-you-can-drink special. Many of these places stick patrons with a cover charge. Desperately searching for a place focused on food instead of drink, we went into the lone ethnic joint we encountered - Chinese - but they were full. Hungry and depressed, we reluctantly went into Vendage, the bistro across the street from our hotel. We were suspicious because there was no one in the restaurant on a Friday night, perhaps because the blackboard boasted sets starting at 2500Y (!). This turned out to be the worst value meal we have ever had in Japan - a set including a small salad, vegetable pizza, and drip coffee cost 2100Y.
AO-SHIMA and UDO JINGU At Ao-shima you get the feeling the developers were a bit overambitious. The hotels are in disrepair or disuse, likely because this is primarily a daytripper destination. It is worth a couple hours to stroll across the causeway to the tiny island, and look out over the washboard rocks typical of this area. The shrine is strikingly pretty in the sunlight, and watching hopeful couples appeal to its supposed matchmaking powers amusing. The drive from Ao-shima to Udo Jingu hugs the coast and provides amazing vistas over beaches, cliffs, and striking rock formations. Udo Jingu is a huge shrine complex set in a spectuacular seaside setting, and thus is deservedly popular with Japanese tourists. We took the 220 towards Kanoya to head back to Kagoshima, which was a mistake as the traffic was painstakingly slow. Better would have been to return via the 10.
SAKURA-JIMA Driving the road that circumnavigates the volcano on Sakura-jima was a trip highlight. The volcano puffs smoke almost continuously, and the views from the Yunohira Observatory are fantastic. In mid April, the hillsides are dotted with the vigorous pink azaleas.
AIRPORT ACCESS Desiring proximity to the Kagoshima airport, we stayed at the Good Inn (approx 7000Y double bed with bath and breakfast), a great little businessman's hotel on the 228 near the Kyocera hotel complex. We dined at an Indian restaurant a bit south on that road, and had acceptable curry which didn't hold a candle to Sri Lanka restaurant in Kumamoto. The morning of our departure, we drove up the 228 to Old Kumaso Cave, which is set in a pretty river valley dotted with ryokan-onsen (for those who want easy airport access but prefer to avoid the businessman hotel). When time came to return the rental car and check into the flight, again Japanese service and efficiency were remarkable. We enjoyed a decent and affordable lunch in an airport diner, and watched planes come and go on the airport outdoor observation deck, which offers views to the Kirishima volcanic range - and a sense of arriving full circle.