We are now far far away from Okinawa. But it was a great two years we will always treasure.
Things we miss about Okinawa, in no particular order:
turquoise colored water
stepping in for a dive off the seawall
the amazing cafes
fabu curry house for dinner
the produce market behind camp shields
seaside walks at araha or sunabe, zanpa or maeda
the Japanese pride in workmanship and attention to detail
safety of one's person and property
Skymark flights to mainland Japan
weekend trips to Zamami, or Okuma, or wherever...if only we had more weekends
uniqlo
bento boxes, especially those sold in random places by elderly ladies
So for those of you still in Okinawa - don't let the annoyances get you down. Rise above irritations like Mediatti (the worst cable company in the world), and not being able to read the menu or the events listing, and the fact that it always seems to rain on your weekend off. Get out, explore, order the set lunch no matter what might be in it, and trust that the Japanese people will almost always do the right thing. Find a favorite cafe, and keep going back there. Spent a lot of time looking at the sea.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Seaside the Beach hotel and restaurant
Location: Sunabe; from the 58 turn at Hamagawa, then turn right after the port. Take this road until you see the big purple Sea Dream apartment complex, and turn left there (there is a sign for Seaside the Beach at that corner as well). The hotel is on the right. Park on the seawall.
Hours: Holukea restaurant is open from 1700 every evening
http://hotel-thebeach.com/
We had a delightful stay at Seaside the Beach during our last 3 days in Okinawa. The rooms are 7000Y pp per night for two twins beds and a capsule private bath, and includes breakfast. The rooms are smallish, but have a minifridge, aircon, ample closet space, and memory foam mattress toppers. And the location means you can wander around the seawall in the evenings, or head to Gordies or Transit for lunches. The staff are helpful and friendly, and made up a nice receipt for me to turn into the authorities for reimbursement. There are beverage and beer vending machines in the hotel hallways and coin laundry services as well.
The breakfast is fantastic - all you can eat hot and cold items which rotate daily. There is an egg dish (tamago, scrambled eggs), meat (spam, sausage, bacon), champuru (tofu, fu, goya), miso soup, burdock root salad, rotating salad (pasta, potato), broiled makerel, rice or congee, yogurt, fresh fruit, toast and jam, coffee/tea/orange juice. It is served in the Holukea space, which has 270 degrees of windows overlooking all of Chatan and the ocean. On nice days, they open the windows to let in the breeze.
We also went to Holukea for dinner. They do 250Y Orion or Asahi draft 1700-1900 M-F. Dinner is reasonably priced, with izakaya type food for 400-1200 per plate. We had a decent seafood pasta, curry potato pizza, and soba noodle. All these felt like comfort food to us on our way out of Japan. Better food can be found elsewhere, but not with these views and beer prices.
What a lovely goodbye - drinking Orion and eating minipizzas while watching the sun set over Chatan.
Hours: Holukea restaurant is open from 1700 every evening
http://hotel-thebeach.com/
We had a delightful stay at Seaside the Beach during our last 3 days in Okinawa. The rooms are 7000Y pp per night for two twins beds and a capsule private bath, and includes breakfast. The rooms are smallish, but have a minifridge, aircon, ample closet space, and memory foam mattress toppers. And the location means you can wander around the seawall in the evenings, or head to Gordies or Transit for lunches. The staff are helpful and friendly, and made up a nice receipt for me to turn into the authorities for reimbursement. There are beverage and beer vending machines in the hotel hallways and coin laundry services as well.
The breakfast is fantastic - all you can eat hot and cold items which rotate daily. There is an egg dish (tamago, scrambled eggs), meat (spam, sausage, bacon), champuru (tofu, fu, goya), miso soup, burdock root salad, rotating salad (pasta, potato), broiled makerel, rice or congee, yogurt, fresh fruit, toast and jam, coffee/tea/orange juice. It is served in the Holukea space, which has 270 degrees of windows overlooking all of Chatan and the ocean. On nice days, they open the windows to let in the breeze.
We also went to Holukea for dinner. They do 250Y Orion or Asahi draft 1700-1900 M-F. Dinner is reasonably priced, with izakaya type food for 400-1200 per plate. We had a decent seafood pasta, curry potato pizza, and soba noodle. All these felt like comfort food to us on our way out of Japan. Better food can be found elsewhere, but not with these views and beer prices.
What a lovely goodbye - drinking Orion and eating minipizzas while watching the sun set over Chatan.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Kasthamandap
Location: across the street from Foster; if heading south on the 58 turn right at CowCow, the restaurant is on the north side of the street (ie across from CowCow) right after the turn. The parking situation is quite unsatisfactory - there are about 5 tiny spots that involve parking other people in or having a difficult time backing in/out. A little further west on the same street there is a larger vacant lot which some use for parking.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily; http://www.japanupdate.com/?id=9436; 098-936-6355
We have done lunch and dinner in the new location of Kasthamandap. Overall, the new building is much better than the beach shack - there is AC and the dining room is fairly classy. The bathroom still leaves a lot to be desired - it is left open to the outside (ie via a window) and is not air conditioned, so it is sticky and breeds smells. There is a shower in the toilet area, which had been used while we were eating lunch, so one of us had to clean the toilet seat of water droplets sprayed from the shower (yuck!).
Service is still lackadaisical though, very much like we remember at the old location. This is not a place to go if you are hungry. It can be difficult to get the attention of the servers. But this makes it ideal if you want to sit around and chit chat with friends - here no one will hurry you along.
The food remains adequate, nothing great. During the dinner visit we had the butter chicken curry (approx 1050Y) which was really just a tomato-cream sauce with no appreciable heat and a couple meager bites of chicken. We also tried the chicken meatballs, which were essentially ground tandoor chicken pressed into balls, a bit dry, accompanied with a sweet side sauce and small salad. At lunch, we had a large sampler set and a smaller single curry set. These come with choice of drink (get the lassi), mini salad with too much dressing, and a tiny chunk of chicken. The lamb curry was tasty, but had only a couple slivers of meat. The vegetable curry was less appealing, and had remarkably little veg in it, which doesn't make much sense as vegetable is quite cheap in Okinawa. The bean curry (ie dal) was fine. The naan here is large and freshly baked, and is the highlight of the meal. In some ways, this is a south asian chips and dip - naan and curry sauce. Perhaps a friend has a better approach - she orders the chicken biriyani which comes encircled in a salad and topped in an egg.... a bit more action that just a puddle of curry sauce.
Hours: 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. daily; http://www.japanupdate.com/?id=9436; 098-936-6355
We have done lunch and dinner in the new location of Kasthamandap. Overall, the new building is much better than the beach shack - there is AC and the dining room is fairly classy. The bathroom still leaves a lot to be desired - it is left open to the outside (ie via a window) and is not air conditioned, so it is sticky and breeds smells. There is a shower in the toilet area, which had been used while we were eating lunch, so one of us had to clean the toilet seat of water droplets sprayed from the shower (yuck!).
Service is still lackadaisical though, very much like we remember at the old location. This is not a place to go if you are hungry. It can be difficult to get the attention of the servers. But this makes it ideal if you want to sit around and chit chat with friends - here no one will hurry you along.
The food remains adequate, nothing great. During the dinner visit we had the butter chicken curry (approx 1050Y) which was really just a tomato-cream sauce with no appreciable heat and a couple meager bites of chicken. We also tried the chicken meatballs, which were essentially ground tandoor chicken pressed into balls, a bit dry, accompanied with a sweet side sauce and small salad. At lunch, we had a large sampler set and a smaller single curry set. These come with choice of drink (get the lassi), mini salad with too much dressing, and a tiny chunk of chicken. The lamb curry was tasty, but had only a couple slivers of meat. The vegetable curry was less appealing, and had remarkably little veg in it, which doesn't make much sense as vegetable is quite cheap in Okinawa. The bean curry (ie dal) was fine. The naan here is large and freshly baked, and is the highlight of the meal. In some ways, this is a south asian chips and dip - naan and curry sauce. Perhaps a friend has a better approach - she orders the chicken biriyani which comes encircled in a salad and topped in an egg.... a bit more action that just a puddle of curry sauce.
Dim sim lunch at Nikko Alivila
Location: Yomitan, just north of Nirai beach (off the 6) See map: http://www.alivila.co.jp/en/access/index.html
Hours: Sunday / holiday brunch 1130-1500 (http://www.alivila.co.jp/en/rest/kinshasa/)
This is a lovely brunch for a special occasion. The dining room is attractive and boasts big windows with ocean views. There is a back room with two large tables, perfect for a work function. The cost is 2500Y + drinks (beer, tea, etc 500-900Y). There is a large buffet that includes salad, sides, rice paper rolls, steamed buns, stir-fry seafood and greens, stir-fry rice noodle and veg, various fried bits including pork & chicken, shrimp wontons, shrimp balls various, wonton soup, congee, chili-tofu over rice, and about 15 different types of dessert. Then, on top of that, servers come around with dim sum trays and you pick dumplings of all varieties, colors, and filling-types. Some of these were quite creative, ie purple or green wrappers around interesting meat-based fillings.
All the food was quite good. The dumplings brought to the table were quite appealing, especially the shrimp ones. Along the buffet table, the shrimp wontons were very tasty, as was the seafood stir-fly. The egg steam buns should be saved for dessert, but were delightful. Another standout dessert item was the coconut tapioca in benino-flavoured milk. Certainly, this is an all-you-can-eat option that does not compromise quality, and has something for almost everyone.
Hours: Sunday / holiday brunch 1130-1500 (http://www.alivila.co.jp/en/rest/kinshasa/)
This is a lovely brunch for a special occasion. The dining room is attractive and boasts big windows with ocean views. There is a back room with two large tables, perfect for a work function. The cost is 2500Y + drinks (beer, tea, etc 500-900Y). There is a large buffet that includes salad, sides, rice paper rolls, steamed buns, stir-fry seafood and greens, stir-fry rice noodle and veg, various fried bits including pork & chicken, shrimp wontons, shrimp balls various, wonton soup, congee, chili-tofu over rice, and about 15 different types of dessert. Then, on top of that, servers come around with dim sum trays and you pick dumplings of all varieties, colors, and filling-types. Some of these were quite creative, ie purple or green wrappers around interesting meat-based fillings.
All the food was quite good. The dumplings brought to the table were quite appealing, especially the shrimp ones. Along the buffet table, the shrimp wontons were very tasty, as was the seafood stir-fly. The egg steam buns should be saved for dessert, but were delightful. Another standout dessert item was the coconut tapioca in benino-flavoured milk. Certainly, this is an all-you-can-eat option that does not compromise quality, and has something for almost everyone.
Saturday, July 11, 2009
Delicious cafe
Location - heading east on the 23, turn right at the Bowling center sign. The restaurant is on the left-hand side, before you get to the Sports/bowling center and Kitakaisen
Hours: approx 11:30-1:30 lunch, 6p- dinner, unsure which day closed
This new cafe has garnered lots of positive press recently. I was suspicious it may not live up to the hype on the basis of its sign, which proclaims "Let's try Japanese cuisine" (or something to that effect). A sushi (ie flamboyant rolled sushi) restaurant that tries so hard to cater to gaijin has already got one strike against it.
We decided to try it anyway. The interior has an unfortunate diner quality, with plastic booths and misapplied plastic frosting on the windows. There is large English menu on the wall, which is slightly different to the English menu brought to the table. At lunch, you order off the standard menu, and get a soup and salad with your sushi selection. Prices for rolls are 600-1300Y. We tried the deep fried California roll and the special of the day, which was a variety of Dragon roll. Sadly, both were almost inedible. The California roll had was filled with the cheapest and most dreadful fake crab stick, an overabundant helping of cream cheese, and underripe avocado, surrounded by excessively sweet rice, mushi nori, then seared on the outside to no apparent culinary advantage. Only slightly better was the dragon roll, which was pretty but simply not worth the calories. The inner part of the roll was a tempura shrimp, which seemed to have no flavour at all. This was surrounded by a large quantity of the over-sweet sushi rice and nori. On the top, outside of the roll, was a small and bland piece of maguro. All this was topped with way too much mayonnaise, another sweet sauce, orange roe, and flecks of tempura batter. There was almost no fresh fish flavour to the roll at all - instead it was just sugar, rice, and mayonnaise - three things I would not want to mix up in a bowl and eat. The accompanying ginger soup was mediocre, and the salad was your typical lettuce/cabbage but drowning in proprietary Japanese dressing.
It saddens me to write such a poor review of a local small business. Perhaps the owner will find success with his restaurant by giving the gaijin what they want - fat and sugar, with a small amount of fish thrown in for appearances. But if you are craving rolls, head elsewhere. We haven't been to Sushi Zen for a while, but last time we went the food quality was far superior.
Hours: approx 11:30-1:30 lunch, 6p- dinner, unsure which day closed
This new cafe has garnered lots of positive press recently. I was suspicious it may not live up to the hype on the basis of its sign, which proclaims "Let's try Japanese cuisine" (or something to that effect). A sushi (ie flamboyant rolled sushi) restaurant that tries so hard to cater to gaijin has already got one strike against it.
We decided to try it anyway. The interior has an unfortunate diner quality, with plastic booths and misapplied plastic frosting on the windows. There is large English menu on the wall, which is slightly different to the English menu brought to the table. At lunch, you order off the standard menu, and get a soup and salad with your sushi selection. Prices for rolls are 600-1300Y. We tried the deep fried California roll and the special of the day, which was a variety of Dragon roll. Sadly, both were almost inedible. The California roll had was filled with the cheapest and most dreadful fake crab stick, an overabundant helping of cream cheese, and underripe avocado, surrounded by excessively sweet rice, mushi nori, then seared on the outside to no apparent culinary advantage. Only slightly better was the dragon roll, which was pretty but simply not worth the calories. The inner part of the roll was a tempura shrimp, which seemed to have no flavour at all. This was surrounded by a large quantity of the over-sweet sushi rice and nori. On the top, outside of the roll, was a small and bland piece of maguro. All this was topped with way too much mayonnaise, another sweet sauce, orange roe, and flecks of tempura batter. There was almost no fresh fish flavour to the roll at all - instead it was just sugar, rice, and mayonnaise - three things I would not want to mix up in a bowl and eat. The accompanying ginger soup was mediocre, and the salad was your typical lettuce/cabbage but drowning in proprietary Japanese dressing.
It saddens me to write such a poor review of a local small business. Perhaps the owner will find success with his restaurant by giving the gaijin what they want - fat and sugar, with a small amount of fish thrown in for appearances. But if you are craving rolls, head elsewhere. We haven't been to Sushi Zen for a while, but last time we went the food quality was far superior.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Monkey pod
Locations: Naha, north of Kokusai street; from the Mitsukosji department store, walk a couple blocks east and turn down a street than appears to have several restaurants on it (sorry, cannot be more specific). On the west side of the street, ie your left, within about a block will be a wooden construction cafe with vintage Americana decor. This is Monkeypod - they have a mini-chalkboard sign outsideHours: unknown
Options for non-touristy food are scarce in the Kokusai district. We toileted in Mitsukoski (downstairs) and then headed east and north to look for a halfway decent restaurant. Monkeypod had the right vibe. The place is adorable, with vintage Hawaii-theme stuff everywhere. They have an English menus - 750Y for pasta and a drink, 1000Y approx f
or a locomoco set or Hawaiian plate. We got an array. The food was not spectacular, but was decent. All sets came with a light consomme and ice/hot coffee/tea plus a small piece of angel food cake with mango syrup sauce. The pasta was a creamy mushroom, well-prepared but a bit dull. The Hawaiian food plate had four segments - curried potato salad, rice, mini locomoco, and fried chicken bits. Again, nice, but better food is to be found at Hanahou. Really, the attraction is that this is an artsy, tranquil place within stone's throw of the hustle and artifice of Kokusai street. And that alone is worth a visit for those in the area.
Korea - week 2
TONGYEONG - The bus was about 1.5 hours from Jinju, and the station is a bit out of town. We took a taxi to the Gangguan harbour (approx 4000W) and then walked about in search of a love hotel. The first two nights we stayed at the Tower, which was an obvious fake brick building with neon signs on the external west side of the harbour. We paid 40000W a night and got panoramic views and Internet, but the building was a bit rundown and security felt lax. We changed hotels to the Injon, which was right around the corner and charged the 
same money for a slightly nicer room with a worse view. What to do:
Tongyeong is a real live fishing town with a famous live fish market. This, and all the live fish restaurants, are a sight to behold. We also enjoyed wandering through the sculpture garden (in the park on the external east part of Gangguan harbour. We also spent a pleasant couple of hours making our way to the Hallyeo Waterway Observation Cable Car entrance, riding up, and checking out the views over the city 
and surrounding islands. http://eng.tongyeong.go.kr/03/06.asp
and surrounding islands. http://eng.tongyeong.go.kr/03/06.asp But Tongyeong's real attraction is the ferry terminal. This Seoul Times article explores some of the possibilities: http://theseoultimes.com/ST/?url=/ST/db/read.php?idx=6600. Options include a ferry to to Yeonhwasa (check times, for us 9am) for a great hike out to Dragon's head point via the Yeonhwa temple. Take your own lunch, and get a beer at the Yeonwha ferry terminal to celebrate your safe return (at approx 1530). This hike is discussed in the LP. Another option is to take the early 
ferry to Bijindo (approx 7am), and hike the western part of the island, following a well-marked trail to the summit. Bijino's village, situated on one side of the strip of beach which connects the two tiny islands, wins the Korea "Tidy Town" award and has a distinctly Greek island feel about it. Relax on the beach before hopping the (approx 11:30am) ferry to Somaemuldo, where you can do another well marked hike out to the lighthouse. Some nice photos of that hike: http://nathanhendrix.wordpress.com/2009/05/16/tongyeong/ress.com/2009/05/16/tongyeong/ix.wordpress.com/2009/05/16/tongyeong/ This three leg trip needs to be discussed with the helpful desk people at the Tongyeong t
erminal, and also must be explained to the boat captain on the way to Bijindo. That way, you can clarify what time the ferry from Bijino to Somaemuldo will depart. You need to keep your ticket stub (which says Somaemuldo) when you get off at Bijindo. Luckily, our boat captain had worked in Australia and had great English language ability. Remember to pack food as options on these islands are limited and tend to include raw shellfish. There is accomodation on the islands. Bijindo had a cute looking pension or two, and would be our recommendation as to where to stay. 
Somaemuldo was a bit overdeveloped, with multiple hotel options, but the town was somewhat muddy and unpleasant. It appeared there was an unused hotel in the town on Yeonwha, but the place had a unwelcoming air.
ferry to Bijindo (approx 7am), and hike the western part of the island, following a well-marked trail to the summit. Bijino's village, situated on one side of the strip of beach which connects the two tiny islands, wins the Korea "Tidy Town" award and has a distinctly Greek island feel about it. Relax on the beach before hopping the (approx 11:30am) ferry to Somaemuldo, where you can do another well marked hike out to the lighthouse. Some nice photos of that hike: http://nathanhendrix.wordpress.com/2009/05/16/tongyeong/ress.com/2009/05/16/tongyeong/ix.wordpress.com/2009/05/16/tongyeong/ This three leg trip needs to be discussed with the helpful desk people at the Tongyeong t
erminal, and also must be explained to the boat captain on the way to Bijindo. That way, you can clarify what time the ferry from Bijino to Somaemuldo will depart. You need to keep your ticket stub (which says Somaemuldo) when you get off at Bijindo. Luckily, our boat captain had worked in Australia and had great English language ability. Remember to pack food as options on these islands are limited and tend to include raw shellfish. There is accomodation on the islands. Bijindo had a cute looking pension or two, and would be our recommendation as to where to stay. 
Somaemuldo was a bit overdeveloped, with multiple hotel options, but the town was somewhat muddy and unpleasant. It appeared there was an unused hotel in the town on Yeonwha, but the place had a unwelcoming air.Food:
Tongyeong is a provincial city, and we often felt we were an annoyance to restaurateurs who might have preferred to avoid interacting with foreigners. Despite this, we had some memorable meals. A visit to the most popular squid kimbap store on 
Gangguan harbour is recommended - this is the restaurant with the picture of the middle aged Korean lady on the sign. For approx 3500W each you get all you can eat squid in red sauce of daikon with an array on nori-wrapped rice. We also had an amazing samgyeopsal meal between the harbour and the ferry terminal. We picked the restaurant because it was packed and smelled of frying meat, and for 15000 each we had a feast comprised of fatty pork cooked on an aluminum-foil covered hotplate, wrapped in lettuce leaves with lots of toppings, and several 
bottles of beer. At the end of the meal, the proprietor fries off rice and veg in the porkfat so the rice gets crunchy on the bottom - mmm, like dolshot b
imibap but possibly more delicious. We also enjoyed a fish lunch at a busy joint by the Ferry terminal (just east of it, on the corner). For approx 7000W, we got 4 small grilled fish with red pepper sauce and a vast array of side dishes. We got all our breakfast pastries from Neuf, near the live fish market.
Gangguan harbour is recommended - this is the restaurant with the picture of the middle aged Korean lady on the sign. For approx 3500W each you get all you can eat squid in red sauce of daikon with an array on nori-wrapped rice. We also had an amazing samgyeopsal meal between the harbour and the ferry terminal. We picked the restaurant because it was packed and smelled of frying meat, and for 15000 each we had a feast comprised of fatty pork cooked on an aluminum-foil covered hotplate, wrapped in lettuce leaves with lots of toppings, and several 
bottles of beer. At the end of the meal, the proprietor fries off rice and veg in the porkfat so the rice gets crunchy on the bottom - mmm, like dolshot b
imibap but possibly more delicious. We also enjoyed a fish lunch at a busy joint by the Ferry terminal (just east of it, on the corner). For approx 7000W, we got 4 small grilled fish with red pepper sauce and a vast array of side dishes. We got all our breakfast pastries from Neuf, near the live fish market. BUSAN
The bus ride from Tongyeong (one 
can catch the bus to the station from downtown if you can find someone to ask which line is correct) to Busan is about 1.5 hours. It arrives in the western terminal, which is on the metro line that zips you into center city. We took the metro to Yeonsandong, and then surveyed the love hotel options. We checked out the Good Morning haotel, recommended by the LP
- very cute, but with an obvious foreigner population. Ian and Wendy offer directions: http://www.ianandwendy.com/travel/korea/haotel-motel-busan-wonderful-clean-cheap-motel.htmbusan-wonderful-clean-cheap-motel.htmmotel.htmmotel.htm We looked at a room at the posh Vu motel - for 100,000W a night you get a huge suite with double sink/shower/Internet and general plushness. We stayed at a motel two doors down, for 40000W a night, which offered the 
standard Internet, double bed, fridge, decent bathroom, room service, water dispenser. Yeonsandong is a great base - it has amenities but in not overrun with tourists and has a fantastic selection of restaurants. We enjoyed another meat on grill meal on the main drag there.
can catch the bus to the station from downtown if you can find someone to ask which line is correct) to Busan is about 1.5 hours. It arrives in the western terminal, which is on the metro line that zips you into center city. We took the metro to Yeonsandong, and then surveyed the love hotel options. We checked out the Good Morning haotel, recommended by the LP
- very cute, but with an obvious foreigner population. Ian and Wendy offer directions: http://www.ianandwendy.com/travel/korea/haotel-motel-busan-wonderful-clean-cheap-motel.htmbusan-wonderful-clean-cheap-motel.htmmotel.htmmotel.htm We looked at a room at the posh Vu motel - for 100,000W a night you get a huge suite with double sink/shower/Internet and general plushness. We stayed at a motel two doors down, for 40000W a night, which offered the 
standard Internet, double bed, fridge, decent bathroom, room service, water dispenser. Yeonsandong is a great base - it has amenities but in not overrun with tourists and has a fantastic selection of restaurants. We enjoyed another meat on grill meal on the main drag there. What to do:
We had to check out the live fish market and shopping district around Nampodong, which was hopping on a Saturday. On Sunday, we took the subway to Nopodong and followed all the 
Koreans dressed in expensive hiking gear up the hill to the bus stop for the bus to Beomosa. Honestly, Beomosa was not that impressive after having seen a variety of other Korean temples, but it was alive with activity. More importantly, it in the same zone of the city as the Hurshimchung spa (across from the Nongshim hotel; approx 8000W) which is easily seen from the pedestrian overpass you take coming out of the Oncheonjang subway stop. http://chrisinsouthkorea.blogspot.com/2009/01/destination-hurshimchung-heosimcheong.html
Koreans dressed in expensive hiking gear up the hill to the bus stop for the bus to Beomosa. Honestly, Beomosa was not that impressive after having seen a variety of other Korean temples, but it was alive with activity. More importantly, it in the same zone of the city as the Hurshimchung spa (across from the Nongshim hotel; approx 8000W) which is easily seen from the pedestrian overpass you take coming out of the Oncheonjang subway stop. http://chrisinsouthkorea.blogspot.com/2009/01/destination-hurshimchung-heosimcheong.html Not far from the Oncheonjang subway station is the entrance to th
e Geumgang park and cable car, which provides a remarkable view over the sprawling city. You can then hike to the South gate of 
the fortress, and from there to a variety of spots. Interestingly, many Koreans end their hike with a picnic along the trails behind the cable car station. Ladies have small kitchens in the woods and set out a tarpaulin and table for you. If you wander up the hill from the cable car station, you will inevitably run into these joints. We did not partake, but almost everyone else did. 
e Geumgang park and cable car, which provides a remarkable view over the sprawling city. You can then hike to the South gate of 
the fortress, and from there to a variety of spots. Interestingly, many Koreans end their hike with a picnic along the trails behind the cable car station. Ladies have small kitchens in the woods and set out a tarpaulin and table for you. If you wander up the hill from the cable car station, you will inevitably run into these joints. We did not partake, but almost everyone else did. 
We also enjoyed a walk and a beer along Hae-undae beach and Dongbaek park. It is an easy walk from the beach to the Vesta spa (get a map from the friendly tourist info ladies) where for approx 8000W you partake in lovely outdoor/indoor pools and saunas with a view of the sea. We enjoyed this spa more than the larger but less aesthetic Hurshimchung. (For a bit more info on the etiquette of Korean spas: http://chrisinsouthkorea.blogspot.com/2008/10/destination-dragon-hill-jimjilbang-or.htmldragon-hill-jimjilbang-or.html ) Food:
The food in Busan was a bit of a blur - we enjoyed cruising the main drag in Yeonsandong and choosing a meat-grilling restaurant, always ordering the obligatory house soju. We loved a tiny joint in Onche
ondong (see photo with happy crab sign) on the main north-south street that runs between the spa and the gate to the cable car entrance. The place was crowded at 5pm, had no English menu, and catered to middle-aged Korean men who hiked the same route every Sunday for the past 20 years, then descended the mountain to get drunk and eat crab stew in this restaurant. And while wandering around the university zone we stumbled on a place doing a "couple set" for 11000W which included salad, drink, and a huge place of spicy glass noodle chicken stew (very much like the Andong chicken we 
had in Gyeongju).
ondong (see photo with happy crab sign) on the main north-south street that runs between the spa and the gate to the cable car entrance. The place was crowded at 5pm, had no English menu, and catered to middle-aged Korean men who hiked the same route every Sunday for the past 20 years, then descended the mountain to get drunk and eat crab stew in this restaurant. And while wandering around the university zone we stumbled on a place doing a "couple set" for 11000W which included salad, drink, and a huge place of spicy glass noodle chicken stew (very much like the Andong chicken we 
had in Gyeongju).
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Korea - week 1
As a tourist in southern South Korea, you are a stranger in a strange land. This area does not receive many foreign visitors. You will make no end of faux pas. People may comment on the size of your nose, the redness of your sunburned skin. Children stare. When you go into a restaurant, you may have the distinct feeling the staff wish you would turn around and leave, because they know you won't be able to read the menu or eat the food correctly. But you will also enjoy that sense of adventure and accomplishment when you stumble on a busy restaurant, manage to order, and then eat one of the finest meals of your life. And if you like to drink late into the evening, you will inevitably encounter a drunk professor or engineer who speaks some English and has a daughter studying in Australia, who will buy you beers despite your protestations. You will feel privileged to hike lovely hills and take in seaside views that few other foreigners have seen. You will lament that your own country fails to organize a transportation system even half as inexpensive and efficient as that in South Korea. And you will fervently wish that every country had 35$ motel rooms replete with high-speed internet, plasma screen TV, minifridge, free drinks, and private bath.
Fukuoka to Busan - Fly to Fukuoka on Skymark, and jump on the subway (the airport is the metro line terminus) for the brief ride to Hakata Station. If you arrive in the evening, stay in one of the business hotels within 5 minutes walk of the station. We went to Toyoko Inn (8600Y a double) this time, which boasts a nicer colour scheme than most business hotels, and a tasty Japanese all-you-can-eat breakfast of onigiri, miso, and burdock salad. The Green Hotel is cheaper, but no breakfast. In the morning, take the bus from the bus stop right across the street from Hakata station to the International Ferry Terminal (correct line for the bus clearly signmarked in English). The bus stops right in front of the terminal. Carry small change for the bus.
The JR Beetle is a high-speed hydrofoil to Busan - a fantastic idea. http://www.jrbeetle.co.jp/english/ We made advance reservations online (you have to create a login and password to do this) but you can buy tickets at the counter too. The ticket is 130,000Y each way normal price, but if you go on weekdays less than 7 days apart it is 100,000Y each way. On a weekday, the ferry was half empty. You also have to buy a terminal useage ticket for 500Y. There is a bit of paperwork for the Japanese and Korean immigration/customs, and you definitely must have your leave paperwork and ID card. The ferry of course leaves on time, arrives on time, and is a beautifully smooth ride. You keep your luggage with you on a rack above your head. You cannot leave the cabin during the ride. You can buy beer, beverages, and snacks in the terminal and on board. Asahi Super Dry is just 150Y a can, so almost everyone had one.
On arrival in Korea, you clear immigration (where everyone gets their temperature checked) and customs, get some Won at the global ATM, and make your way our of the terminal compound onto the street. From there it is just two blocks west (ie away from the water) to Jung-angno street and the subway station. From there, you can get almost anywhere in Busan, but we were headed for the express bus terminal. The ATM gives you 10,000W notes (about 8$) but you need 1000W notes to buy a subway ticket. So, head to the center of the subway station to the change machine and get some small bills. The, right next to it is the ticket machine. You have to know your line number (Line 1 goes to the bus terminal) and then select your destination (for us, the North end of the line Nopodong). The fare was about 1500W. The train takes about 30min, and the subway station is contiguous with the bus terminal. There are various food shops, including international chains and family-owned Korean joints, in the station/terminal. The destinations are written in English over the appropriate ticket booth, and when the bus is about to leave a sales clerk appears at the window and the price appears. It was 4000W to Gyeong-ju, a 1 hour ride. The bus was tidy, left on time, and trundled along at a remarkable speed.
GYEONG-JU is a town that grows on you as you explore it. The ancient capital of the Shilla empire, it is billed as the museum without walls. The bus pulls in at the western end of downtown. There is a tourist info kiosk right there, with helpful ladies who speak English, provide a city map, and can write a note for you that says "May we stay another night?" and/or "May we see the room?" or some other useful phrase. Seriously, these are the most professional tourist desk ladies we have ever enc
ountered. While there, pick up the handy Yangdong Folk Village handbook.
ountered. While there, pick up the handy Yangdong Folk Village handbook. ACCOMMODATIONS Just north of the express bus station (on the way to the intercity bus terminal) there are a couple of newish-looking love motels, including one with the slogan "Love&Joy&Fun." We decided to go a bit further east, into town, and stumbled on the delightful NMotel(N for Noblesse), which sits on the upper-west corner of the Noseo-dong Tumuli Park area. For 40,000W weeknights/50,000W weekends, you get a large room, double bed, flat screen TV, computer with Internet access, air-con, water machine, minifridge, jacuzzi bath and shower, electric toilet, toiletries, and tea/coffee/drinks. Very comfortable, and very quiet, with a lovely view of the Tumuli. The Korean love motel has to be one of the best accommodation values ever. You pay 
in advance at the window - no names, no forms, no ID required at all. Each evening we showed our note paper (Can we stay another night?) and handed over the money. In the morning, we turned in our key so they would know we were out and clean the room. Otherwise, we kept the key with us. The man in the box downstairs is sometimes not there in the morning, so you can just leave your key in the basket out front if you are checking out. There is no laundry service in these hotels, and no laundromats in Korea, so we just did our dirty clothes each night in the tub/sink and hung them up on a line (which we brought with us) overnight. Between the aircon and the warm spring 
temperatures, they were dry by morning. There are hostels and tourist hotels in town as well, but why would you spend the same or more money for a room not nearly as nice?
in advance at the window - no names, no forms, no ID required at all. Each evening we showed our note paper (Can we stay another night?) and handed over the money. In the morning, we turned in our key so they would know we were out and clean the room. Otherwise, we kept the key with us. The man in the box downstairs is sometimes not there in the morning, so you can just leave your key in the basket out front if you are checking out. There is no laundry service in these hotels, and no laundromats in Korea, so we just did our dirty clothes each night in the tub/sink and hung them up on a line (which we brought with us) overnight. Between the aircon and the warm spring 
temperatures, they were dry by morning. There are hostels and tourist hotels in town as well, but why would you spend the same or more money for a room not nearly as nice? FOOD Many Korean restaurants specialize in one particular item, which is fantastic for the adventurous eater. We had duk (porridge) at a shop on the west side of Boseongno street, between Wonhyoro and Dongseongno streets. The beef and mushroom was quite tasty, similar to risotto, and came with three different side dishes (7000W). We recommend against 
the walnut duk unless you are looking for a gruel-like bland breakfast. We had a two delightful noodle dishes (4000Y each) at a place on an alleyway off of the main shopping drag that extends off of Gyerimno street as it travels north of Tumuli park. Turning left at the Benneton, you head down the alley and the shop is on the south side of the street. One was a chilled noodle with lots of veggies and spicy bean paste, which you mix all together and enjoy. The other was noodle soup with fish cakes, with a good-to-the-last-drop broth. The alleyway just south of there has a mandoo (dumpling) shop where you can 
get amazing steamed, fried, or watery dumplings for 3000-3500W a plate, and various mandoo and/or rice cake soups for 4000-5000W. We enjoyed Jjim duk at a little place on the south side of Wonhyoro street, just east of Noseodong park. For 15000W, you get a huge serving of Andong-style spicy soy-based stew filled with chicken bits (boned costs more, so
for 12000W you can get unboned chicken), glass noodles, and veggies. You can order rice to mop up the juices, but we didn't have any room left in our bellies. You get a small blue dish for the refuse ie bones and skin. We tried a bit of street food across the street from Gyeong-ju station, including yummy barley dumplings stuffed with bean paste (1000W for 3) from a lady on the north corner, and fishcake on a stick and mandoo (4000W total) from a lady on the south side. We cannot recommend the westernish cuisine at Cookand Bistro, which is on one of the alleyways in the downtown shopping district. We had two rather unfortunate oversweetened dishes (9000W each) and were a bit suprised at the popularity of the place. We also 
must advise against ssambap, or at least the ssambap place at the southwestern corner of Tumuli park with a picture of a friendly-looking older Korean couple on the sign. Ssambap is supposed to be numerous side dishes which can be wrapped in lettuce leaves. We eat almost anything, but there were multiple dishes we could not stomach, including raw fermented/pickled fish, rehydrated dried&salted fish, fermented fish and tofu soup, pickled eggs, jellied brown stuff, kimchi'd large leaves, and super-spicy chewy raw fish. We made a small meal out of the rest of it, but were sad to part with our 9000W and disappointed that the LP and Moon guides so highly recommended the experience. It should also be noted the marking on the LP and city maps of Ssambap restaurants does not seem to be in the right place.
the walnut duk unless you are looking for a gruel-like bland breakfast. We had a two delightful noodle dishes (4000Y each) at a place on an alleyway off of the main shopping drag that extends off of Gyerimno street as it travels north of Tumuli park. Turning left at the Benneton, you head down the alley and the shop is on the south side of the street. One was a chilled noodle with lots of veggies and spicy bean paste, which you mix all together and enjoy. The other was noodle soup with fish cakes, with a good-to-the-last-drop broth. The alleyway just south of there has a mandoo (dumpling) shop where you can 
get amazing steamed, fried, or watery dumplings for 3000-3500W a plate, and various mandoo and/or rice cake soups for 4000-5000W. We enjoyed Jjim duk at a little place on the south side of Wonhyoro street, just east of Noseodong park. For 15000W, you get a huge serving of Andong-style spicy soy-based stew filled with chicken bits (boned costs more, so
for 12000W you can get unboned chicken), glass noodles, and veggies. You can order rice to mop up the juices, but we didn't have any room left in our bellies. You get a small blue dish for the refuse ie bones and skin. We tried a bit of street food across the street from Gyeong-ju station, including yummy barley dumplings stuffed with bean paste (1000W for 3) from a lady on the north corner, and fishcake on a stick and mandoo (4000W total) from a lady on the south side. We cannot recommend the westernish cuisine at Cookand Bistro, which is on one of the alleyways in the downtown shopping district. We had two rather unfortunate oversweetened dishes (9000W each) and were a bit suprised at the popularity of the place. We also 
must advise against ssambap, or at least the ssambap place at the southwestern corner of Tumuli park with a picture of a friendly-looking older Korean couple on the sign. Ssambap is supposed to be numerous side dishes which can be wrapped in lettuce leaves. We eat almost anything, but there were multiple dishes we could not stomach, including raw fermented/pickled fish, rehydrated dried&salted fish, fermented fish and tofu soup, pickled eggs, jellied brown stuff, kimchi'd large leaves, and super-spicy chewy raw fish. We made a small meal out of the rest of it, but were sad to part with our 9000W and disappointed that the LP and Moon guides so highly recommended the experience. It should also be noted the marking on the LP and city maps of Ssambap restaurants does not seem to be in the right place. 
WHAT TO DO Walking around town is quite rewarding - Noseodong's Tumuli park (free) and the larger walled Tumuli park compound (1000W) are both lovely. The Jungang market is alive, interesting, and has a plethora of inexpensive food options. One morning, we took the 10 bus for 1000W (caught on Seoseongno street heading south) to Bunhwangsa temple (boasting a pagoda from the 600s AD), and visited there, Hwangyongsa (foundation of a Silla palace), Anapji pond (Silla pleasure lake area), Wolsung forest, Gyerim forest, and the Cheomseongdae observatory in succession. Admissions
are either free, 500W, or 1000W. Another morning we took the 11 bus for 1500W to the museum (admission 1000W), which holds all the Silla artifacts excavated from temples, palaces, and tombs locally. We took the 11 bus down to Bulguksa Temple (4000W), which was ridiculously crowded with middle school children on school trips, but still worthwhile. At 20 past the hour, a bus leaves across the street from the temple parking lot and heads to the Seokguram grotto, 20 minutes up the hill. There is a 20min walk from the parking lot to the grotto (admission 4000W), which houses a beautiful stone Buddha sculpture and is considered a high 
point in Sill artistry. The bus returns down the hill on the hour (ie, about an hour after you arrive at the grotto.) A 2.2km wooded trail connects the two sites as well. Koreans seem to enjoy the steep uphill hike, but we did it downhill and were plenty tired as a result. We spent another rewarding day exploring Yangdong village. You take a 200 series bus (200-208, 212, 217) from across the street from the bus station or from Seoseongno street about 40min north and get off at the sign for the village turnoff - remember to 
mention to the bus driver where you are headed so he will stop appropriately. Then walk about 2km by the railroad tracks (there is a track beside and below them), go under the bridge, then veer left heading towards the elementary school. Walk a bit further and you have arrived. Use the handbook to guide your walk around the village - it is large and hilly, and there is a lot to see. We are usually suspicious of "folk villages" but this is an extraordinary place. Regular Korean people live here as they would in any other farming village, except that they live in beautiful traditional homes. There are trappings of modern life like air condi
tioners, satellite TV dishes, and mechanized farming equipment, which is exactly as it should be for a functional community. There are two spots in town for refreshment, as far as we could tell - both visible from the main road. We had a persimmon-cinnamon-ginger tea at the place with two outside umbrella tables (2000W each). There was also a ssambap-type restaurant which was crowded with the camera crew that had been on site filming a bunch of singing and dancing children.
mention to the bus driver where you are headed so he will stop appropriately. Then walk about 2km by the railroad tracks (there is a track beside and below them), go under the bridge, then veer left heading towards the elementary school. Walk a bit further and you have arrived. Use the handbook to guide your walk around the village - it is large and hilly, and there is a lot to see. We are usually suspicious of "folk villages" but this is an extraordinary place. Regular Korean people live here as they would in any other farming village, except that they live in beautiful traditional homes. There are trappings of modern life like air condi
tioners, satellite TV dishes, and mechanized farming equipment, which is exactly as it should be for a functional community. There are two spots in town for refreshment, as far as we could tell - both visible from the main road. We had a persimmon-cinnamon-ginger tea at the place with two outside umbrella tables (2000W each). There was also a ssambap-type restaurant which was crowded with the camera crew that had been on site filming a bunch of singing and dancing children. JINJU - We hopped on a bus to 1.5 
hr bus ride to Jinju, with a plan to stay overnight there and then take the bus to Tongyeong. Jinju is a pleasant work-a-day city that straddles a river. Unfortunately the bus station is distant from the downtown centre - best to hop a cab, but one can walk along the river (keep heading west on the south bank of the river until the main bridge, approx 1.5km, then cross the river and the love hotels will be immediately on the right). The LP suggests the Versace, but we ended up at You motel, which was totally acceptable. No computer, but a balcony and view over the river, and a la
rge tub (4000W). The love hotel zone is just west of the bus station, and just east of the main drag shopping area. It is a pleasant walk past the riverside eel restaurants to the Jinju fortress, a worthwhile attraction (1000W). We spent hours checking out the fortress wall, temples, and views. But the cafe in the park is a rip off. One of out best meals of the trip was dinner in Jinju - we wandered the streets heading north from the hotel until we were at the foot of a huge Lotte residential tower complex (within stone's throw of a large church) and stumbled on a small restaurant with a picture of rice in a dolshot (stone bowl). Turned out, this was ssambap, but a delightful version. For 700W, we got a ridiculous amount of food that included 3 different kinds of fish, a crab t
ofu stew, and countless 
veggie dishes.
hr bus ride to Jinju, with a plan to stay overnight there and then take the bus to Tongyeong. Jinju is a pleasant work-a-day city that straddles a river. Unfortunately the bus station is distant from the downtown centre - best to hop a cab, but one can walk along the river (keep heading west on the south bank of the river until the main bridge, approx 1.5km, then cross the river and the love hotels will be immediately on the right). The LP suggests the Versace, but we ended up at You motel, which was totally acceptable. No computer, but a balcony and view over the river, and a la
rge tub (4000W). The love hotel zone is just west of the bus station, and just east of the main drag shopping area. It is a pleasant walk past the riverside eel restaurants to the Jinju fortress, a worthwhile attraction (1000W). We spent hours checking out the fortress wall, temples, and views. But the cafe in the park is a rip off. One of out best meals of the trip was dinner in Jinju - we wandered the streets heading north from the hotel until we were at the foot of a huge Lotte residential tower complex (within stone's throw of a large church) and stumbled on a small restaurant with a picture of rice in a dolshot (stone bowl). Turned out, this was ssambap, but a delightful version. For 700W, we got a ridiculous amount of food that included 3 different kinds of fish, a crab t
ofu stew, and countless 
veggie dishes.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Onna at lower low tide
Onna is accessible via the 58 or the expressway, exiting at Yaka and crossing the island.From the 58, there are various places to turn to approach the water and find a spot to park. If you turn at the elementary school, you go down a small road and then go right into a dirt opening, follow that around, get as close to the water as possible, and park. There is a cute beach here. We prefer to turn at Manzamo, take a left before entering the tourist trap, then take a right to get to the straight road parallelling the coast. You can park here and find a trail that heads down to the water. This puts you on the beac
h near the cave pools. You can also drive further into Manzamo and turn down a tiny unmarked street and follow this downhill. This takes you to a grassy area with a picnic table and the toilet bowl dive site entry.Onna is a sweet spot to spend a sunny spring day, especially at lowest low tide. Check beforehand at the Tide Toya website: http://www.mobilegeographics.com:81/locations/6543.html
At super low tide, you can walk almost the whole length of this coastline over the exposed shelf. Some live coral is exposed,
so you have to be careful to avoid it. There are also plenty of sea urchins, making correct foot placement even more essential. This is not a walk for children. But the tidepools are great along here. There are lots of Japanese people out quite far collecting shellfish or whatever.This little adventure should be combined with sustenance at a local cafe. Our favourite is Cafe Masaho, which is just south of the Manzamo turnoff on the 58 (west side), and by a restaurant with a pig sign. We have reviewed them elsewhere on this site (open at noon). They do plate lunch for 1000-1200Y - they speak minimal English so just point and shoot. All the food is delicious and healthful. One of the sets is a pasta dish.
Afterwards, head to the Onna Resort public beach, which is just north of the Onna fishing port. There are a couple places to enter from the 58 -
one at the fishing port, then you turn right and get to the parking lot, and one a little further north that heads more directly into the parking lot. The beach is behind a sporting field and school. There are public toilets, free picnic areas, vending machines, a snack bar, and a lifeguard. During our visit they were not charging admission or parking. To the south is a great view of the cliffs at Manzamo, and to the north is the ANA Intercontinental resort. They have various boats doing touristy things. There is a swimming area perfect for kiddos. We got some drinks at the local Coco (there is also a Family Mart) and spent a leisurely couple hours at a covered picnic table reading our books. Bliss. The beach does have a loudspeaker system playing J-pop, sol you do have to tune this out, but otherwise it is a great spot. 
Friday, May 8, 2009
North of Kadena steps
Location: north of Kadena marina, take one of the small roads off the 58 out to the sea. P
ark along the seawall in Mizugama.
Golden week has passed, so the carp flags over the river may have been taken down. Regardless, this is a nice walk. The seawall here is nearly deserted, a
nd lined with residences instead of shops. The graffiti on the wall consists of elementary school childrens' murals. You walk to the mouth of the river, and then turn and follow the south bank of the river. The multimedia center marked on the phone book map is an interesting modernist structure. There is a small jetty and on the day we went boat rides up and down the river were 500Y. The river is prettiest on an incoming tide.
ark along the seawall in Mizugama.Golden week has passed, so the carp flags over the river may have been taken down. Regardless, this is a nice walk. The seawall here is nearly deserted, a
nd lined with residences instead of shops. The graffiti on the wall consists of elementary school childrens' murals. You walk to the mouth of the river, and then turn and follow the south bank of the river. The multimedia center marked on the phone book map is an interesting modernist structure. There is a small jetty and on the day we went boat rides up and down the river were 500Y. The river is prettiest on an incoming tide.
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