Sunday, November 18, 2007

Yomitan

There is something charming about Yomitan. It has a real Japanese neighborhood feel, lots of lovely potted gardens and low-set houses with tile roofing. A day driving around and hitting the local sites is well worth your time.
The Yomitan pottery village can be reached from the 12 (turn at Kina intersection). Follow the signs, park in the designated area, and the start at the glass workshop. It is fascinating to watch the craftsman work and their product is the finest we've seen on island, but you pay for it. Two lovely turquoise tumblers were 6000Y. On following the road back, you pass lots of pottery workshops / stores, a cafe, and then the old kiln. Some of the buildings along the path are remarkable for beautiful gardens.
Zakimi castle ruins are also off the 12. Follow the signs and head towards the hill. No admission charge, no cheesy souvenir stands, and you can walk along the tops of the walls, with a great view of the ocean.
Follow the 12 out past the 6 and find your way to the ocean. Check out the beaches just south of the Nikko Alivia hotel. There is a nice secluded cove beach just south of the main hotel beach. During the off season, you can park right in front of the hotel beach and go there without a problem.
From there you can head north towards Cape Zanpa. There are several beaches along here but most excessively built up for our taste. Zanpa beach rents all sorts of water amusement gear, is set in a park that is not particularly attractive, and fronts a resort hotel that appears past its prime. The area around the lighthouse will be covered in a separate post.
Food:
Keep your eyes open for little shopfronts with mama-sans selling bento boxes. These are inevitably excellent value and tasty.
There is a road that parallels the 58, starting south of Kina intersection. At the top of this road, there is a soba shop that looks like a large concrete house with a nice garden around the entrance and to the side. No English-language sign-posting, but the menu has pictures. Their soba broth is very tasty, and ranks as our second favorite on island. Their menu also offers purple noodles (made from the local sweet potato) but these were unavailable at out visit.
Several great cafes also live in this area. Shimauma curry shokudo and Hanahou are our favourites; others rave about the pancake house, Mintama, and Rakuza.