Location: IC to Kyoda then 58 south
This is a challenging area that offers the best and worst of Okinawa. The drive along the 58 is beautiful, but speeds by you too quickly to really understand what attractions exist on the beach. Lots of the coast is controlled by horrible resorts that block access to the water and have spoiled their beaches with rows of umbrellas and beach chairs, and stockpiles of rentable ocean gear (ie banana boats, jet skis, kayaks, etc). All along the ocean side of the 58 is a sidewalk, which can be walked of biked in pleasant weather. There are also frequent small turnoff/parking areas both of the west and east sides of the highway. Many of these are located at access points to the beach. From the walkway you can spot trails through the brush onto lovely natural beaches (without facilities) which have not yet been incorporated into a resort. Also, community fishing ports provide a place to park that is often within walking distance to a reasonable beach. The lesson from trolling this coast is that there is always a way to get to the water, because Japanese fishermen do not pay for shoreline access.
Nago citizens beach is one of the best on island. There is adequate parking and no admission charge. The beach extends the entire bay from Kouki to Kise. There is a toilet block and a small hotel/cafe, but otherwise no annoying infrastructure and no intercom musak. Walking north around a few rocks you reach a picnic area and a small beach facing the Kyoda bay. Walking south you travel on sand all the way to Busena point. There is reportedly a dive site at Kise; people snorkel all along the beach.
Busena is a restricted-access resort peninsula, which is a pity. South of there is a bizarre complex - Kariyushi. There is a convenience store, a lobby and reception counter which offers rental of a variety of water gear, a restaurant with outdoor seating, an outdoor swimming pool (empty at time of visit), and a beach. Rental prices for mats, umbrellas, and beach chairs were ridiculous (think 1000Y for a beach mat, the same ones bought from the 100Y shop).
We did not leave the car between Inbu and Atta; there was a restricted-access road off to Mission beach. Then, on the west side of the road there is a turnoff for sunset viewing, with a platform at the top of some stairs. There are trails down to the beach on either side of this parking area (partially obscured by overgrowth). There is a hotel at the northern part of the beach, accessible if you crawl over some rock formations. The hotel has made a trail around a rock outcropping (on the south side of their property) with steps down to the water, and thus created a snorkeling area. The rest of the beach stretching south is quite undeveloped. There are even a few pine trees for shade.
Further along: across the street from Okinawa Hills Hotel there is a turnoff/rest area on the west with a gazebo. You enter, drive north, and park near the exit of the turnoff. There is a trail leading to a beach. It appears there is a dive site here called Diamond beach, off the rocky fingers jutting out from the southern part of the bay.
There is a turnoff in Seragaki which leads to the community port (on phone book map this road goes to Seragaki Reef Hotel). Off that road there is a gated road leading to a bunch of Okinawan tombs. At the end of that peninsula, there is a short trail to the water's edge, which apparently used to lead to a nice dive site. Unfortunately, there is a massive construction project going on there. They seem to be building a stone breakwall on top of the reef, connecting the tombs peninsula with the neighboring island, creating a protected harbor or a resort or something. There is a lot of silt in the water. So the dive sites "Tombs" and "Seragaki outer reef" seem to be out of commission for now, and possibly forever. Currently the causeway out to island that hosts "Emerald Green Club" and Seragaki beach (along presumably with "Seragaki inner reef" dive site) is closed.
The next major peninsula is another restricted access point and contains the Manza Beach hotel. We took a peek and were not impressed - the beach is sullied by the same collection of umbrellas, lounge chairs, and ocean rental equipment. It appears one could park at the port south of Manza peninsula and walk to an adjoining and less developed beach. This is visible from Cape Manzamo.
