There is a lot of ground to cover in Northern Okinawa and we have barely scratched the surface. The following is a series of first impressions. Driving north on the 58 from Oyama the road hugs the coast and the views are lovely. There are many small sandy inlets and rock outcroppings, some of which looked inviting for snorkeling. There are also q number of fruit stands on the eastern side of the road, offering seasonal produce for less than the San-A.
The Okuma peninsula is home to a couple pretty beaches, unfortunately owned by JAL and the Air Force. Compared to other military beach facilities, Okuma is miles ahead in terms of scenery. Many stay here for easy access to Hiji falls.
Just north of Okuma is the lively village of Hentona. In a brief tour of town we spotted several interesting restaurants and sampled two. There is a soba shack by the fishing port which does a huge bowl of noodles and has an outdoor picnic table. On the main road through town is a Peruvian restaurant (cannot recall the name) in a freestanding cottage, parking available out front. The friendly proprietor and his family lived for many years in Peru, lending an excellent opportunity to practice your Spanish. They serve a unique and tasty ceviche, and we also enjoyed their Peruvian rice dish. Beer and awamori are on offer.
Between Benoki and Uka, to the east, there is a forest preserve noted on a local map. This appears to be north and a bit west of Benoki dam, and features a peak of 420M.
The next obvious destination is Hedo, which unsurprisingly caters to the tour bus trade with souvenir shops. There are several paths to take, leading to various viewing platforms. Further along, the coastline along is dramatic and windswept, and boasting rock formations and cliffs and rivers. Some really nice exploring could be done here, in the right season with the right equipment and preparation. Throughout the whole northern part of the island, there are small roads heading off into the hills, leading who knows where - another temptation for the intrepid explorer.
Heading south on the 70, there are intermittent views of a stark coastline, the sand often tinged black or red by the rock of the cliffs. We drove into Ada, where a local offers some kayaking in season. At the fishing port there, two divers emerged. Along the beach walking south, there is a rock outcropping offering protection from the wind, and a small group was camping there. The small town of Aha has some traditional looking Japanese homes going up a hillside, apparently interconnected with small pathways and stairs.
Traveling south pineapple fields begin to appear. The next major destination is Gesashi, which is sadly the largest remaining mangrove on the island. Thus, multiple kayak tour operators offer their services here. There is also an elevated walkway over the mangrove and up the a hill just north of the river offering views over the area. A cafe on the main riverside drag offers affordable and tasty lunch sets. It looks like a small home with a single table in the front patio which is otherwise filled up with potted plants. The English translation is provided by the proprietress - chicken, beef, fish, etc. We drive around for awhile through fields trying to find Gasashi Fureai Uppama park, reportedly the most beautiful beach in the area. Parking is road/fieldside but the beach is not as nice as west coast beaches.
Higashi village (to which Gesashi pertains) has a tourist map which discusses (mostly in Japanese) a variety of local attractions. Try to obtain one because it is contains a decent map of the area and red dots for point of interest. In Takae there is a swimming hole called Shizo Gumai located in an old lumber yard. There is a hike starting at the Fukuji dam entrance going up Mt. Tamachiji ending one hour later in a 360 degree panorama. Closeby (in Kawata) "on the edge of the national forest, on the left bank and 800M upstream from the mouth of the Fukuji river" is an old sappanwood tree which is designated as a national monument. In Taira there is a "citizen's forest / Tsutuji eco-park" which hosts the March azalea festival.
Also helpful in a tour of this area is the Northern area review on the JET website. Go to the Info tab, then scroll down the page and click on "Regional guides."
